El Palenque...

I could never draw a clear picture of a cockfight to someone that's never experienced one. No photos or verbal descriptions can capture all the disgust that takes place in....one place. I hope I never see another cock fight again. If you are interested, go. And get drunk. I couldn't imagine going to that event sober. I did manage to win 20 bucks...

In El Salvador, we took a beat-up boat ride to the most beautiful beach I have ever seen. Completely deserted except for a small shack where amazing ceviche is cooked and beer served cold. You can look in two directions on a sandbar. Don't go to the left - there's sharks there. The right is much more tranquil. Tai Chi and heavy listening.

I think I am at my happiest when there is nothing left to do but run. No. I mean, sprint long distance. When we got to the beach, I couldn't sit still. I had to run, fast and hard, finally plummeting in the shark infested waters, riding a few waves before screaming "todo es un sueno!" I didnt want to take photos there for nothing could capture the emotions rushing through me in that moment.

We lunched at an El Salvadorian restaurant where a trio played classic Guatemalan tunes. I danced with Paola and an older lady at the other table. The heat in El Salvador is like summer on steroids. My whole body was drenched in sweat, and I was forced to strip down to my boxers. And I kept dancing...there, in the restaurant. No one cared. I think I like El Salvador.

We're back in the Cuidad where we had a relaxing and cleansing day. Beautiful weather here. Realllllly nice, sunny skies. It feels like L.A. The weather that is...

Tomorrow we venture in the early morn to Panahatchel, a colorful village next to Lake Atitclan, with three big volcanoes rest on the other side. I plan on doing something wild with my hair...

Much love,

-El Caracol