Salty clouds - Bolivian babies

Slow ride! Take it patiently! Damn right. Bolivian internet sucks! But, apart from an irritatingly slow interconnectedness websitean wants AND needs, Bolivia has been better than I expected. We, meaning Jonathan, I, and our hilariously fun traveling French companion Nordine, have been biting through Bolivia. Yesterday, we awoke early to beat traffic at the border, but had a stupid issue with the sole-working border cheif, who took forever to attend to our needs to cross into Bolivia. It turned out the only thing that was out-of-line was that there were no more GREEN stickers for my passport clearance. So, we waited and waited and he FINALLY found one in a HUGE safe, probably filled with just GREEN stickers. Scared we´d miss the bus to Uyuni, we moved like dogs to the terminal. Amazingly, upon arival, we discovered that the BOlivian time zone is an hour back, giving us just enough time to buy a ticket and hot cinnamon juice and jump on the sketchy looking bus.

You know what, Bolivian buses DO suck! I still cannot believe the trek we did, constantly bumpy, winding up dangerously curvy mountain sides. The desert landscape was empty and pretty much the same the whole way, but twas nice to be on the road. After a strange vomit-like substance flooded the floor, we got some deep naps. After 8 hours, we made it to Uyuni, met two Columbian backpackers and followed them to a nice hostel, where we layed our stuff down - eventually getting 10 hours of sleep. But before that we had a great night.

Imagine a small fried chicken shack filled with Bolivians glued to the TV screen shooting big Hollywood KING KONG into their faces. Yeah, we were into it to. Yay Hollywood...or not.

Later, we followed loud noises and found ourselves inside a humungous packed gymnasium, where the Uyuni girls basketball championship game was in full force. Twas super awesome being part of another communal gathering.

On the record, BOlivian babies are the cutest in the world and I WANT ONE!

Today, we took a tour to the worlds greatest salt flats, which blew our minds to salt crystals. Imagine a vast white desert of salt. Blue sky, white ground. Even the clouds were filled with salt. In the middle of the white desert lies an island of ancient coral reef. Some quick history: the salt flats used to be an ocean tons and tons of years ago, and now it has dried, and on this random huge island, cacti have grown. Crazy views. Beautiful scenery. Lots of pictures and fun. We ate quinua and meat, salad, drank coca cola, and chewed on some coca leaves. Good for digestion and altitude sickness. What a crazy day.

Tonight, soon, very soon, we will take a night bus to La Paz with our crew of 5 and continue to on Copacabana, a Lake Titicaca pueblo. We have a few days to get to Peru, but we´ll make it. The road never ends. We are ready for more.

Shwing!

Bike ride, siesta, flat tire. Damn. I hitched a ride on a motorcycle back to Humahuaca and left my friends with the irritating task of dragging my dead bike. First time riding on the back of a moto. Id do it again.

We are now in La Quica, tippy-top of Argentina, planning our next move, probably to Uyuni, which lies next to the biggest salt flats in the world! We hope for a single day tour. From there, probably La Paz, and we´ll swing around Lake Titicaca to Cuzco. We are confirmed for our trek to Machu Pichu, which makes me feel like hip thrusting the air, which is my current sign of approval.

Jonathan and I have started a rap group called Best Rappers Alive and we rap about mundane, ordinary things. Life is a musical between us. Uh....YEAH!

We stumbled upon some traditional voodoo-like rituals, where little cute delicious brown kids set a giant scarecrow creature on fire. We also received blessing from flower-holding, water-throwing preist. Today, I experienced the coldest shower of my life. New slam poetry. Brain excercises. Siesta fiestas.

Gotta wake up early early to get to Uyuni. So long for now Argentina. Te amo.

DAVE!

Suavedad

Pasta and steak dinner. Red Mendoza wine on the side. The three of us were a great team in the kitchen last night.
This morning - egg omletes with onions, tomatoes, cheese,and avocado.
Fresh cheap empanadas today.
We will rent bikes and ride around Humahuaca, then take a bus to the border in a few hours, and probably stay the night in La Quiaca tonight, and hit the Unuyi salt flats tomorrow, hopefully.

Laundry is done. Clothes are fresh.

Onwards and upwards.

Dave

Rainbow Mountain Boys

Currently in Humahuaca. Purmamarca was beyond words gorgeous. We climbed a tough hill today, had lunch with white wine, and meditated. Fresh air. Rainbow mountains. Whoa...

Met a nice buena onda frenchman today and traveled with him here to Humahuaca and will make dinner soon.

We are getting closer and closer to Bolivia and can see the transformation in the darker faces, dirt roads, prices, etc. People are nice to us. Keeping a watchful eye but having fun.

I am over that stupid sickness and feel GREAT!

Salta was pretty cool. We saw a Incan mummy that blew our minds. My friend Katelyn from Buenos Aires met us at our kick-ass hostel and we got to hang out, dance, groove, be crazy, and enjoy life.

Jonathan and I are practicing more and more Spanish and he is improving/gaining more confidence. I, on the other hand, can speak normally and am so happy to see how I have improved over the past 5 months. I started learning French from our French cutie roommates in Salta, and caught on quickly. I have a thing for languages. It might be my good memory or something else. Whatever it is, I wanna keep going.

Speaking of going, I gotta do just that. Soon, we will hit Bolivia and hopefully see the salt flats before heading towards La Paz and Lake Titicaca. We are confirmed for our Salkantay Trail trek and the light is bright on the horizon.

Sending my love in every direction,
Dave

Flow

I stumble out of the minivan after shaken from a quick nap. Look! Colors! Mountains! Nature! God! Life! Yes!

I had doubts about this excursion, a whole day traveling around nothern Salta and lower Jujuy, pinned inside a minivan. We did get see San Antonio de Los Cobres, an ooold mining town, where we picked up lunch and picnicked on the Salt Flats. Damn. Thats a lot of salt. But, as Jonathan put it, the salt flats were kinda bizzare. Outstrected white canvas with various digging expeditions and random object thrown here and there. We took some amazing photos, continued our ¨Foto loco¨ jumping pose, which continues to be epic everytime. DAMN! I gotta post them soon. Not that easy yet... Anyways. Nature everywhere. 1 day roadtrip. Solid.

Antibiotics! Gotta get this throat healed!

USA won today so we get a FREE night at Backpackers World, AKA the best hostel ever. Such good vibes, backpackers, bar, free dinners, discounts, excursions, and so on.

Tomorrow, we will explore the city of Salta and then head to Purmamarca, a quiet village in Jujuy, by late evening. Never has "going with the flow" made so much sense.

More hot tea and good times ahead.

MUCHO AMOR!
David

Fotos

I have been taking great photos. Once I get time to sit, relax, and upload, I will post em up.

Salty Skies

We made it to Salta. Cutting through colored mountains, thermoses of tea honey lemon explosions. Still, my throat kills. Push forward. Movement. Change. Life. Love. We will probably check out the salt flats tomorrow and skip the Train de los Nubes (a touristicy lookout at the nearby gorges). We will save more intensely colored mountains for La Montana de Siete Colores in Purmamarca in the province of Jujuy. Free breakfast and dinner in Backpackers World Hostel. Argentina continues to dominate in futbol. Spirits are sky high. Mochileros. Folklore. Chivito. Back to more tea.

D

Vino Puro, Piedra Sangre

I will write this post as i do sometimes in my journals, quick thoughts and images FYI i am writing on a strange keyboard so bear with me...

Wind walkin flying fish we swish through air like its our bussiness, twirlin in mid air mid cares about much else, ucuman blues gotta move, we arrive in tafi de valle, Tomo japanese hostel queen and late night tea, colds going down gradually, hike up the cerro de la cruz what a view, big lunch glass of wine ride up to cafayate, its fresh air season for good reason, them boys have arrived, best rappers alive, wine tasting tour and a full day canyon hike, tye dye colored mountains, rock paradise,its a chivito goat lunch and dinner is the same, step up to thetable and bring your A game, with wine anf folklore musics my ears eyes and soul; rock and roll pass themic we roll,cqllme gangsta sniffles, makin some more tea, its a mystery out there in front of us but its Salta i can kiiiinda see, well get in before the futbol game, argentina, lets go.

and los mejores alfajores del mundo!

Wind walkin

The plane lands, or should I say smashes on night pavement. Bienvenidos a Tucuman!

The man with the white moustache to my right hands me a paper with his info. "If you need anything, dont hesitate to call me. I have many connections with the Tucuman embassy." Suddenly, the capital city of Tucuman seems less dangerous than what others have described: poverty and crime. "Thanks Fernando! We´re off to Tucuman Hostel."

When we arrive, Carlos, the desk employee, greets us with open arms. He was a pilot in California pre-911 and now is back in Tucuman. We converse about Cali and the Santa Monica airport. Jonathan mentions paragliding in Tucuman, AKA jumping off a mountain with a parachute (and a guide), and Carlos´ eyes open wide and shoot lazer sun rays over his hypnotizing smile. He immediately whips out his phone and shows us videos. "Yes! I will go with you tomorrow! Ill book it now..."

So, its morning in Tucuman and we chill out over some toast and tea. After we paraglide, we will head to Tafi de Valle, a picturesque green valley with nothing much but walking roads and from what I read, amazing cheese. But, we´ll find out soon. Then, we will hit up the ruins in Amaicha for a couple hours before we hit Cafayate, the wine capital of Salta. Do I taste drunk horseback riding on the tip of my mind´s tongue? Take it in stride. Glide with wind. Tucuman day 1, begin!

El Camino

I awake with no voice. My room is cold. I feel awesome.

My cousin Jonathan (AKA Juanito) arrived in Buenos 2 days ago and life has been sweet tasty. We watched Argentina dominate Korea, had a great lunch with my host-family, partied with all my Tigre friends at my house, Jons first night here. Music, pizza, Fernet, and amor. I got As in all my classes! Last night, we went to a farewell dinner prepared by my program which was amazing, then watched the Lakers win the ship, and continued to dance our butts off in Club 69. Is that Dave up on the platform?! YES! Crazy good vibes, Brazilians hotties, and DANCE.

Well. I awake with a good tiresome blues. Last day in BA. The road is bright ahead. First stop - Tucuman. The next chapter begins.

Like BAM! Ya feel this?

I received an 8 out of 10 (which transfers to an A-) in my Economic History Argentina class. The course was in Spanish and pretty tough, but I studied silly and whipped out a darn doodley grade.

Thats just a piece of the po-positive news that was today. Basically, i carried the best 'onda' with me all dia long. My energy was so hot and contagious, like disco balls raining over jupiter, that other people caught on. Like BAM! Ya feel this? YEAH! Now take it and spread it, like dulce de leche on my morning toast. Im like a simile machine!

I went to get coffee with a Dutch chick from my Literature class. I was really anxious before, super on edge, for no apparent reason. She turned out to be super cool. Buena onda between us. She came with me to buy backpacking pants and a tennis balls for Caho (my Argentinean papa), and she had lots of helpful advice. She even painted my pinky nail orange for Holland. Fuck yeah! Lets go Holland!

I am in Muki now for the last time (for now), sipping on a litre of Stella, chewin on potato chips and watching the Lakers dominate the Celtics like puppets on a silver string (which is actually happening in the NBA... by the way, I didnt tell you that...)

O! And I wrote my first song in a long time. My shtick started with me improvising everything, then I said, "hey Dave, you gotta learn some songs for people to sing along to!" So I did... Then, it hit me, "Dave, you havent written squat! Do something about that." Well, it just so happened that I wrote a Spanish poem on the last page of my journal, then turned it into a beautiful song. After dinner this evening, I played it for my home-stay parents who dug it, and corrected my grammar mistakes :)
Our parakeet Carlitos sang along with me. It was slightly more than magical.

Lets keep the groove train movin like the tooth roots soothing through gum drop asphalt cherry bombs. Car alarms and shaman gongs. I long for an helado. A waffle traffic cone and an ol fish bone. Suckaaaaaas!

La Cena

El Cocinero

I cooked for my home-stay family last night, which brought things full-circle.
I prepared the Guatemalan chicken dish that I basically grew up eating.
Last night brought back memories of my stay in Guatemala, the family there that misses me, and overall good times.
The food was delicious, and I am proud that the real chef of the house, Elvira, gave it two thumbs way up.
Happy smiles. Happy bellies. Hoorah!

Little Tree

Things have been connecting in ways that I cannot explain with straight words.

Middle ground. A strange zone. My friends and family here in Argentina are sad I will depart soon while friends and family in the US await my arrival. I am somewhere in between, resting in the intangible. The gates to North Argentina are open, as my mind, shining with adventure and endless possibilities.

I realize my Tigre friends are my true friends I've made in Argentina. I spent this weekend with them. Mucha joda. Great music. Great times. Great, to say the least. Last night, we went to Luna Park to see a folklore/rock band called Arbolito. They sing and represent the traditional pueblos Argentinos with music to dance, jump, mosh, sit, love, and smile. Such a beautiful show!

I ride the waves, saying to myself everyday, that this is the best day of my life! We LIVE TODAY!

Arbolito:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KxOmHzSOg_8

Señor Huxley

Confused blue cotton juice...

My Buenos Aires experience is coming to a close. I finished two of three papers. I will write my third paper about mate, or rather a love story about mate and me. Should be funny and informative. Finals week is this week and the wrapping up of stuff is slow going but definitely going. Sad, but hey, its all good. Tuto bene (for all you Italians out there reading my blog)

Quick thoughts: the NBA is rigged, no doubt in my mind.
The world cup has started. I am slightly distant from the mega-commercial spectacle that the world cup has become. The Argentinean television screens have only been filled with Argentina seleccion coverage (apart from the usual 'fear news') and it all has made me sick. Finally, the tournament has begun! E.E.U.U!!! Argentina! Vamos!

My cousin Jonathan will come down from Los Angeles on Wednesday morning. We will backpack for a month through North Argentina and Bolivia to Machu Pichu, where we will climb the Salkantay Trail. The excitement continues to build!

Late night pizza fills a grumbling mumbling tummy to the max. Jamon y queso, how I will miss you.

Aldous Huxley, your writing is dense and delightful to read on the 59 bus. How you blow my mind every morning and get me thinking thinking thinking, gearing up for golden day.

Mate and carne. I rap all day in faces of confused blue cotton juice. Yeah, I'm running loose like a lizard. Wizard and witches kollect kitche kitchen krap. Theres a boot left in the aftermath. After math class, I dance with the epitaph of an elephant in Africa, mauled by moron lion cubs. I rub a genie lamp and camp in the stars. Gasoline cars and cuban cigars. Look out for the inner eye, always bright, in sight I sit, cross-legged like a superstitious spider. Water on fire. Tired. I recline.

"Mysteries"

I just finished writing a detective story for my literature class. Let me know if you want to read it, and I'll send you an email attachment (it's in English :)

Chau!

NEW POST AND PHOTOS ADDED

Whispering wind - Dancing mermaids

I laid the book down and took a deep breath in, closed my eyes, and drifted with the wind inside the cracks of my skull. I breathed out and I could see for miles inside my body. Every grain of sand in my spleen smiled. Every crevice in my kidney clapped for joy as the thunderous voice in my head roared, “listen to me!” Ritualistically, I came out of reading “The Alchemist” by Paulo Coelho in a healthier place, mentally and spiritually, than when I went in. Those heart-numbing lines would stay with me all day, and while it only took about three days to finish, it was a journey. The book follows an Andalusian shepard boy and his quest. Such themes that arise include: following omens, believing in yourself, and finding your Personal Legend. After I put the book down, I decided to get up and go.

I left my house at midnight on Friday (or Saturday…or Allday, depending on your perception of time) with no set plan, rather a motivation to go with the flow and see where life would take me. In my bag, I brought patience and confidence, openness and fire. I hoped on the first bus I saw, which was the 152 heading south into the capital. I watched people get on and off; I read their energies, and tried grasping the moment. As the bus got more and more crowded, I started feeling more and more distant from everyone around me, even as we were physically squished together. I rode the bus until Retiro when I saw a gorgeous park to my right, quickly jumped out, and strolled through the luscious trees. I had never been there before. And what beautiful trees they were! I looked for a street sign: Maipu. I began my journey on a different Maipu next to my house! Synch! I kept reading signs and energies and strolled by the old clocktower, observed the pores on a baby tree, and followed the half moon to Puerto Madero. This extremely rich spot is a nice place to walk around at night with your lady. I, solo, followed flashing lights to the futuristic white bridge and examined gorgeous water reflections, but still, felt a sense of loneliness. I continued on towards El Centro, and this is where my story gets a bit darker. I have always hated El Centro; at night it transforms into a scarier more dead zone of poverty and overall sketchiness. As I was heading towards El Obelisco, I remembered a line from “The Alchemist” that reads, “If something happens once it will never repeat. If something happens twice, it was repeat again and again” (mas o menos) I remembered Isa and my glorious night during the bicentennial with her. Looking at the monument from a distance, I knew I would not find love there. Nothing could match that celestial night. It was one and only. Suddenly, I felt extremely isolated, vulnerable, and alone. I hailed a cab to Plaza Italia and walked to a new pizzeria. When I entered, I looked into the eyes of man with long wavy black hair and a rascally looking face; he smiled a crooked smile and winked at me. I would eat some of the best pizza I’ve had in BsAs with him, Eduardo, and his friend Santiago. We discussed lots of things. The two of them were learning how to juggle claves (juggling is a huge part of Buenos Aires culture) and gave me great advice about northern Argentina. I definitely was drawn to Eduardo’s energy. His Inner Light was shining in that pizzeria and I knew I had to keep following it. All the loneliness I felt in El Centro vanished. We made plans to meet on Sunday.

I awoke at 1 and headed to San Isidro. I took the bus there for the first time (I usually go train) and walked to the main plaza on a different route. I met with my close friends Sergio (the violinist) and Cora. Cora (short for Corazon – heart) is like my Argentinean aunt/mom/godmother. It might be the Judaism connecting us, but whatever it is, there is something special there. She really loves me, has so much faith in me, and wants me to succeed. She has enforced no smoking marijuana in public in Argentina and not to break girls hearts and respect my lovers. If she were my age, we’d probably make a good couple. Although I like my ladies older, she is a little too old. Anyways, she, Sergio, and I gathered around mate and talked (mate really does bring people together - Argentinean culture is so loving…). Cora paints signs-for-the-house on wood with acrylic colors. They are really nice and cute signs. I gave her some ideas to use in English like “Welcome home” and “King of the house”. She speaks English and Spanish and we talk in both. She gave me one her signs (“Bienvenidos” - ironic since we were departing) We said a lovely goodbye and went our separate ways (for now, at least). I followed the setting sun towards Tigre.

When I arrived, I continued my omen-reading which lead my to a huge concert along the river. Loud drums banged and banged out rhythms at high speed. Mermaids contaminated with garbage danced with toddlers. Without questioning anything. I laid my backpack down, leaped into the circle and let my mojo loose (shaking, jumping, thumping, and whomping around). The concert was established to promote recycling and promote awareness about river contamination. It was sweet, the concert that is. Being there made me feel happy talking with 4 year olds and I liked to goof around a bit. My friend Ines came to find me during a crazy beautiful Indian fusion band/show. We walked to her house singing The Beatles and I met her family. Ines is one of my good Tigre friends. We then went to a very “underground” show in Tigre. This recital celebrated Argentine culture and Murga – Carnival spirit. This was a very local show and I felt like I had dropped into the heart of Tigre: great folklore bands, crazy Carnival celebration with amazing costumes and dance, and buena onda! The food and drinks were super cheap, too. We finished four huge cups of Fernet and Cola and two liters of Brahma. Very nice…

We left the show feeling amazing. I was riding very positive energy and decided to act on it. Still, the confusion constantly pounding in my head about a loving relationship (something more) with Ines OR Rosio (gosh, you have no idea how attractive they are. I have liked both of them so much my entire time here and the confusion of yes – no, which one, had been clawing at me muchisimo). So, we went to Tigre Cantobar (which I found out is not actually called Tigre Cantobar…whatever) and things made started to sense. Rosio had been feeling very down when we met up that night. Something along the lines of family issues and parents fighting made her visibly sad. We talked inside Cantobar and I gave her hope. I told her what Juan had told me on the eve of my birthday - that there are two points on a cycle – great and terrible and the ball moves in a circle. The good will end and return to the bad. Climbing out of the bad times is much harder, but it can only be done with some faith and positive thinking, like visioning an image that makes you feel happy. We also talked about the concept of falling in love. If anything made sense from our conversation, it was that Ro and I are meant to be friends, nothing more. She is gorgeous, but that doesn’t mean I can’t have a gorgeous friend. I wouldn’t want to mess anything up with that. Also, I would not want to start anything more right now, right before I take off. The same goes with Ines. Also, I think Ines is a bit confused with what she wants in life. Right now, she wants to be completely understood by someone else and I can’t fill that void for her - especially when she can’t understand herself. So, I left Tigre with lots of love, happiness and a better understanding of my status with my two friends. I slept on the bus back home and missed my stop. Ahh geeeez!

Today, I called Eduardo and we met up outside Muki. As he walked up, he looked like a pirate washed up on concrete roads. Such a cool guy. We walked to the river, which I suggested it since I had never shared time at the river with anyone else. We drank mate, shared fabricas (croissants) and talked about life; he helped me understand where to go in N. Argentina and plan a timeline; we also talked about boy things and the economic crisis of 2001. Eduardo is the man. He teaches kids with special needs and has tons of patience. I really respect him and am glad we crossed paths in the pizzeria. He invited me over this week for pizza. He lives only ten blocks away from my house in Vicente Lopez. Keep it rolling…

I leave this blogpost fulfilled that I have finished telling my story, and if you are still there, I thank you so much for listening and sticking around. I am so glad you read these posts and get something out of it, whatever that feeling may be. I feel like I am in a good place right now. I know I will leave Argentina much different than when I arrived, and will return here in a different state as well. We are constantly changing. We are constantly affecting others around us. As Aldous Huxley says in The Doors of Perception, “We live together, act on, and react to, one another; but always and in all circumstances we are by ourselves.” I do not completely agree with this, but I do like to think that we constantly affect others and learn from those and that around us, all in the hope to further ourselves. I feel like I have grown tremendously since I left The States, a personal journey. Still, I am looking for her, possibly him, to share this life with. Like the boy in “The Alchemist”, I will continue to follow my path. I am an adventurer.

Joda!

Murga!

This local Tigre group brought the heat, spirit and culture of Carnival. Buena buena onda!

Folkloré

This is a shot of two young dancers displaying the traditional Argentinean folkloré dance. It is a fun soulful style of music and dance that I will see shortly in my journey up to northern Argentina, where folkloré and peña culture is copious and fruitful.

Pretty Lights

San Isidro Bookstore

I bought "The Doors of Perception" and a book of Roald Dahl short stories here. Great store! Hot employees!

Me and Cora

My loving San Isidro angel

Blog Post On the Way

When I am done/get a break from writing my final economic Argentine history paper (why did I take this class?), I will write a much-needed, mind clearing blog.
Cameos will include Alduos Huxley, Paolo Coecho, and Eduardo the juggling mate drinker.

A presto!

Tito

Mermelada

I have read the first half of The Alchemist and I know that I am destined to read the book. Ori, the French backpacker with whom I climbed Mount Fitz Roy in Patagonia, recommended it to me while discussing spiritual communication, colors, among other things. With connections concocting and occuring siempre around me, it is the thread of the universe in which I walk, run, boooy, and shimmy-step together with everything as one.

I went to Plaza Serrano for a superpancho (gigantic hotdog) and smashed into Paolo. Remember Paolo? He is the Brazilian blues guitarist I went with to see BB King. I hadnt seen Paolo since... Our meeting in Chronico was a fury of putamadre! after putamadre!, hugging fuertemente in the resto bar. It was a hell of a night, reuniting with him and my Italian friend Matteo (a good compañero from school). Destiny, slamming on our door, brought us together and continued the next day. We played guitar and went to their old hostel where we enjoyed a delicious asado with a giant group of porteños.

I had left class early to play guitar with them. My Argentinean cultural studies teacher, Professor Amaya, said I could go if I play a song. I played two - improvised the first with Spanish lyrics, then played an ol´classic. The students dug the mini show and I received a warm applause. I did my thing and left, smiling wide. Playing guitar and singing in Buenos Aires has boosted my desire to express myself musically. I feel like I should express myself. It makes me happy. Whether its on the subte, or in a feria, or at an asado, I am down to throw down some jams!

NOW, I am off to bed. Lets keep moving forward. All of our paths are interconnected. All is one. Goodnight. Sleep well. Dulce sueños!

An old drawing